Summary
- Saint Laurent, under Anthony Vaccarello, presented its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection at Paris Fashion Week
- Silhouettes were generously proportioned, with roomy shorts, boxy trenches, and blazers with subtly extended shoulders, emphasizing cinched waists and a geometry that suggested contained sensuality
- Staged amidst Céleste Boursier-Mougenot’s serene “Clinamen” installation, the show emphasized privacy and unspoken conviction
Anthony Vaccarello oversaw Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection presentation at Paris Fashion Week today, signifying their comeback to the main menswear lineup. The event took place in the impressive rotunda of Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, focusing less on flashy displays and more on a deep, nearly silent examination of sophistication, self-expression, and inner peace.
The exhibit subtly took cues from Yves Saint Laurent’s past experiences and personal struggles. The program notes hinted at a time when beauty was used as a defense against void, a profound observation on human existence and the protective strategies some men, notably those from a specific era, would employ. This idea was conveyed visually through fashion choices emphasizing seclusion and a discreet sensuality – ties worn low, dark glasses concealing eyes, and outfits that tightly embraced the body without being overly clingy.
In the opening of his show, Vaccarello paid homage to a youthful Yves Saint Laurent in Oran, presenting garments reminiscent of roomy shorts, boxy trenches, and jackets with gently elongated shoulders that morphed into dress shirts adorned with padded shoulders. The color scheme was muted, primarily composed of sandy hues, salt tones, pale ochre, dry moss, and pool blue, fostering a serene, almost reflective ambiance. Fabrics such as silk and nylon flowed elegantly, accentuating the form without excessive volume. The collection’s power resided in its sculpted yet understated silhouettes, highlighting defined waists and a geometric pattern of exposure that suggested rather than showcased.
The atmosphere became even more captivating with Céleste Boursier-Mougenot’s installation titled “Clinamen.” In this piece, pristine porcelain bowls gracefully moved and occasionally bumped against each other on a shallow aqua pool. This visual artistry echoed the collection’s emotional tone: models intersecting while maintaining a delicate distance, their tranquility punctuated by the gentle, reverberating sounds of ceramic. It was a reflection of Vaccarello’s skillful direction and refinement, choosing to emphasize serenity over a more lively display.
The Saint Laurent SS26 menswear collection boldly asserts the house’s self-assured strength. It subtly affirms those who crave something beyond mere fashion – an understated sensuality without the need for spectacle, a blend of classic style that never fades, and a profound statement delivered through the most elegant designs.
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2025-06-25 02:28