Menswear’s Denim Nostalgia Is Deeper Than You Think

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On April 6th, Devin Booker made an appearance at Madison Square Garden prior to the Phoenix Suns’ match against the New York Knicks. Rather than displaying pricey jewelry, loud branding, or signature shoes for his pre-game attire, Booker opted for a simple yet stylish ensemble centered around a pair of indigo jeans. These jeans were intentionally rolled up to highlight an obvious selvedge seam.

In a pared-down yet luxurious work attire (it was Prada, after all), Booker appeared less like a sports star and more like a modest craftsman. Now, a simple chore coat and designer jeans might not seem groundbreaking, but why is one of the top Italian luxury fashion houses releasing vintage American workwear?

Over more than 180 years of denim’s existence, its evolution is deeply intertwined with a broader narrative about swift societal transformation and technological progress. Though raw and selvedge denims may seem timelessly appealing, fashion’s recurring interest in revisiting denim’s historical forms suggests that as change accelerates, so does our longing for the past.

Really, Really Old Denim

Timeless denim continues to be fashionable, yet it’s the extremely old denim that is currently trending. Brands, ranging from traditional jean manufacturers like Levi’s to modern streetwear creators such as KSUBI, are capitalizing on the category’s nostalgic charm by emphasizing forgotten production techniques. Since 2020, jeans dating back to the 19th century, claimed to be the oldest in existence, have fetched over $100,000 USD at auction. There are numerous factors contributing to denim’s lasting popularity as a wardrobe essential, but its historical and physical heft seems to be a primary factor fueling its endurance.

In various forms, ranging from exact replicas to intricate illusions, the current fashion tends to share a single objective: to bring back the denim of the past. Levi’s serves as an excellent illustration, as they have resurrected two vintage work garments designed in the 1890s: the Lot 201 Jean and the Lot 213 Jacket. Using patterns from the 1920s, Levi’s accurately recreated these pieces using raw Japanese selvedge denim. This spring collection was launched with a limited edition of only 800 sets, priced at $495 for the jeans and $595 for the jacket.

In a contemporary twist, brands are now prioritizing the visual impact over the actual structure when replicating items. For instance, eyewear designer Junya Watanabe MAN and vintage shop BerBerJin recently teamed up in April, employing cutting-edge printing techniques to mimic the aged appearance of coveted Levi’s “503BXX” and “607” models from BerBerJin’s collection.

Denim designers have a long-standing fondness for replicating patterns, which is actually key to the material’s contemporary evolution. Starting in the mid-20th century, designers started intentionally aging denim to create the weathered appearance similar to worn-out jeans. A recent instance of this significant era in denim’s past can be seen in Supreme’s 2025 collaboration with Marithé + François Girbaud. This French duo gained fame in the 1960s for inventing innovative denim wash methods, like stonewashing, by imitating the worn-out look of vintage jeans sold in Parisian stores.

I can’t help but express my excitement over the recent reissue of Levi’s Lot 201 Jeans and Lot 213 Jacket! These pieces hold a special significance when it comes to the practical side of traditional denim, which gained popularity during the late 19th century as the Industrial Revolution swept across the globe. Originally, these riveted twill trousers were worn by workers in physically demanding roles such as mining, agriculture, and construction. However, as the ’70s rolled around, many of these professions had migrated to other countries, along with denim production.

In the US, a new breed of urban professionals was on the rise. Denim, once synonymous with hard work, began to evolve into a versatile lifestyle essential. The reissue of these iconic Levi’s pieces is not just a nod to their rich history but also a testament to how denim continues to adapt and reflect the changing times.

Denim and The “Acceleration of History”

1996 marked the time when Levi’s introduced Levi’s Vintage Clothing, recreating classic designs from their past. A year prior, anthropologist Marc Auge proposed the concepts of “history’s quickening pace” and “hypermodernity.” This shared experience, driven by technological progress, was described as being overflowing with occurrences and giving a sense of an “unending now.

In today’s world, descriptions seem strikingly prophetic as they echo our current reality. The fashion industry appears to be following suit, with everyone bombarded by 24-hour news and social media feeds, and the term “fast fashion” now widely used to denote the rapid production and trend changes in clothing. In his book The Hours Have Lost Their Clock: The Politics of Nostalgia, published in 2021, cultural theorist Grafton Tanner draws attention to Auge’s concept, illustrating how the quickening pace of history has fostered a culture of nostalgia, yearning for stability and consistency amidst disorientation and unpredictability.

In another passage, he suggested that nostalgia gives us the feeling of regaining control by recalling the things that once provided stability, even if they were never truly real. This idea is similar to arguments that when the future seems unpredictable, we often yearn for the past. Looking at it this way, denim might symbolize a widespread longing for items in their most genuine and trustworthy state – a reaction to a world filled with increasing counterfeits, AI-generated fakes, complex algorithms, and widespread distrust of public institutions.

Denim Deja Vu in The 2020s

As a devoted enthusiast, my love for Levi’s deepened during the uncertainties of the 2020 pandemic and the rapid digital transformation that followed. The brand’s reintroduction of 1963 and 1947 models in 2022 was just the beginning, as they showcased a meticulous reproduction of their oldest pair from the 1870s in 2024. This recent surge in generative AI, epitomized by innovations like OpenAI’s image generator, seems to have further ignited my passion. These technological advancements are sparking intriguing conversations about creative authenticity.

However, the yearning for authentic, skillfully made denim isn’t merely an abstract ideal devoid of substance. It reflects a genuine need for superior products. To keep costs low, fast fashion brands have consistently sacrificed quality, leading to criticism from consumers who are growing more aware, particularly in relation to companies such as Shein and Fashion Nova.

In today’s era, which is heavily influenced by microtrends, it makes sense that people might appreciate production methods from the past that offered longer lifespan and superior quality, such as “raw” and “selvedge.” Opting for the faded charm of raw indigo dye and the robustness of traditional selvedge fabric indicates a yearning for something dependable and grounded in practicality. Although there are numerous factors contributing to denim quality, from weight to cotton fiber length, “raw” and “selvedge” have gained popularity as symbols of skillfulness and authenticity. Interestingly, these same values are at the heart of discussions about advanced AI technology and ethical fashion practices.

Through more than two hundred years, denim has spread so widely that its significance can change depending on who you talk to. Yet, this adaptability is also what keeps denim consistent as styles and eras shift. As it travels through diverse cultures, climates, and forms over multiple decades, denim appears to be contemplating its fundamental role – its unwavering toughness in the face of repeated wear and tear.

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2025-04-23 18:56