Kiko Kostadinov FW25 Lives With Free Will

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What identity do you embody, being halfway between night and dawn? This is the enigma that sisters Laura and Deanna Fanning, designers for Kiko Kostadinov‘s women’s line, sought to reveal during their Fall/Winter 2025 runway show in Paris on Tuesday. Here, they showcased the allure of their feminine design philosophy (mirroring that of Kostadinov’s popular menswear) with a collection influenced by the thrill of discovering an unfamiliar city.

The designers described Vali Myers, born in 1930 and passing away in 2003, who was an adventurous Australian dancer. She mingled with the most unconventional circles of Paris during the 1950s. As night turned to day, she would stay awake, bare her form, sip champagne, and boldly roam the city streets, often only wearing a topcoat over a slip.

The free-spirited creativity of Myers influenced the design of the collection: materials such as knitted mohair, moleskin, and alpaca were rugged and punk-inspired, while striped knit gloves and vibrant footwear, including feathered leather pumps and paisley thigh-high boots, often featured eyes for their joyful unpredictability.

The traditional arrangement maintained a sense of order within the collection, blending timeless women’s fashion elements that accentuated femininity. Notable pieces included sharp corsets and sturdy hoop skirts, which emphasized voluminous hips, while gentle tucks and stiff ruffles defined the wearers’ waists.

However, the Kostadinov special wouldn’t be complete without a touch of true rebellion. The Fanning sisters transformed traditional men’s formal wear into women’s attire, referencing the “secondhand layering of Teddy Girls and tomboys.” This led to pastel striped shirts being accentuated with drawstring waists, ties becoming twisted collars, and belt loops replaced by girly rope belts on boyish pinstripe blazers. Some outfits were complemented by a fresh collaboration with Asics—a split-toe sneaker featuring an elegant pattern—adding an extra dose of self-confidence.

The Fannings proposed an image of women who embrace their bodies, sexuality, grandeur, and wisdom, all at once. They suggested that women carve out their unique paths by navigating the balance between contrasting qualities, a journey only women can embark upon. For the Kiko woman, boundaries are not constraints but opportunities to transcend.

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2025-03-11 18:26