In Fendi’s centennial homage to stoles, Prada’s embracing collars, and Simone Rocha’s fluffy knickers, fur continues to symbolize wealth traditionally. Back in times predating social media, the elite WASPs may have kept their scandalous tales hush-hush, but their lavish furs spoke volumes louder than their cotton trousers ever could. Times have certainly evolved: the gossips exchanged in Upper East Side salons are now reduced to snarky online discussions and Instagram shares with Close Friends lists, and nowadays, having financial stability and a good coat might seem like the most coveted luxury of all.
For the Fall/Winter 2025 season, runways were filled with textures like fuzzy fabrics, shearlings, and imitation fur. Maybe designers aimed to offer something comforting as luxury trends have transitioned from tranquility to extravagance. With the shift from understated elegance to grand opulence, designers opted to reintroduce fur – more often its artificial counterparts today – to convey both contemporary wealth and vintage glamour.
Based on TagWalk’s analysis, a data-driven fashion search engine, there was a modest 10% rise in ‘furry’ styles from the FW23 to FW24 seasons. However, the following season, FW25, saw a substantial leap to a 33% overall increase. Interestingly, among all the runways, Rabanne experienced the most significant change from one season to another, with faux fur items skyrocketing by an impressive 1,259%. At the moment, Marni’s collection holds the highest proportion of faux fur, as approximately 56% of their looks incorporate this material.
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The controversy surrounding the use of fake fur versus real fur continues to stir intense debate. Not so long ago, activists from PETA caused quite a stir at fashion shows, reigniting the discussion in the spotlight. In four major cities – New York (Coach), London (Burberry), Milan (Gucci), and Paris (Hermès) – protestors from an animal rights organization disrupted runways. A memorable moment from these events was when a popular fashion blogger, Bryan Boy, took a protestor’s sign in New York. It is important to note that most luxury brands such as Burberry, Prada, and Saint Laurent have ceased using real fur since at least the Fall-Winter 2022 season. The opposition to fur primarily stems from its unethical origins: the production of real fur has a troubling past marked by animal cruelty and excessive consumption. However, critics argue that fake fur is not environmentally friendly due to the use of unsustainable materials.
As a passionate admirer, I can’t help but question the reasoning behind the vigorous reintroduction of this aesthetic, given its moral complexities. It seems like a move that could lead to more harm than good, doesn’t it?
During the last winter season, Target’s $48 USD hooded synthetic fur coat gained popularity – however, the public reaction wasn’t all positive. It was pointed out that high-end brands like Prada also rely on materials such as polyester just as much as Target does. For instance, a faux fur coat from Prada costs approximately $4,000 USD. Although polyester is skillfully employed for sculptural fashion by designers like COMME des GARÇONS and Issey Miyake, its presence on product labels can be off-putting to consumers, as it’s often perceived as a cost-cutting measure or a substitute for natural fibers such as wool, cotton, or linen. Ambria Mische, SVP of Global Sourcing & Merchandising at New York-based luxury vintage store What Goes Around Comes Around, shares this view when it comes to staying warm in statement outerwear: “Synthetic fibers simply can’t deliver the same quality.
From my skeptical standpoint, it seems that brands might be opting for faux fur instead of the real thing since they can set higher prices for it, according to Mandy Lee.
In many cases, polyester faux fur can raise concerns about greenwashing in the fashion industry, as it’s frequently associated with questionable sustainability practices. Although some brands may utilize recycled plastics, these materials remain non-biodegradable. Fashion influencer and writer Mandy Lee (known as @OldLoserInBrooklyn) views this dilemma as a significant moral quandary for all parties involved.
Expressing doubt, she comments, ‘It seems to me that companies are increasingly turning to faux fur because they can command high prices.’ She continues, ‘The primary motivation appears to be financial gain at this moment. However, I strongly believe that the prevailing trend is a shift in values, with more emphasis on sustainability as a movement.’
The widespread appearance of fake fur on the catwalks could be seen as a reaction against the excessively luxury-focused, quiet year that was just passed. Brands like Burberry and Gucci used real shearlings and fake fur as high-end yet contemporary embellishments to showcase their modern designs. After undergoing significant change under Riccardo Tisci and now Daniel Lee, Burberry moved away from being known for your grandmother’s raincoat to a more versatile, youthful brand (though not without its challenges – sales have been decreasing, and rumors of Lee’s departure persist, yet many critics believe FW25 was his strongest season). The autumn collection embodied this transformation, combining contrasting shearling jackets with traditional jodhpurs that appeared more suitable for a modern SoHo House than a Gentlemen’s Club. Miu Miu adorned fake fur stoles on the arms of disheveled models, and Prada’s necklines were dominated by oversized fake fur collars and deconstructed patchwork blazers. Both collections represented a more mature interpretation of the “teenagers stealing their parents’ clothing” aesthetic from earlier seasons. All grown up (or at least trying to be), these pieces enjoyed significant success with consumers. According to TagWalk, Prada’s blazer (look 32) was the most-viewed look of FW25 among any designer. “We are seeing a push for bolder fashion choices,” explains Lee. “People grew tired of basic silhouettes.
As I navigated through the gaming world, I stumbled upon some stunning fashion revelations that made me feel like I was in a whole new level! Gucci unveiled sleek, refined suits with sharp jackets and oversized, fluffy fake fur coats, layered over delicate pastel, low-cut lace tops. It’s like they merged various design eras into one stunning archive-inspired silhouette. Fendi, on the other hand, celebrated a whole century of their rich history by giving a modern twist to classic power suiting. For a true jet-setting Italian, an outfit wouldn’t be complete without a “mink” imitation coat, furry Peekaboo bag, or a long, flowing faux fur scarf!
As a gamer, I’d rephrase it like this:
In a fresh take on fashion, London designer Simone Rocha updated schoolyard uniforms for today, adding a touch of modernity with collars, jackets, and bloomers trimmed in soft brown faux fur that matched the models’ adorable rabbit toys. Designer Simone Ballotti, who has moved on to Jil Sander, filled Bally with vibrant, fluffy Victorian-inspired collars, hemlines, and trains, which perfectly complemented the 80s rock metallic makeup. Chloé went for a new-wave French bohemian style, showcasing tear-drop faux fur stoles and jackets adorned with patterns reminiscent of an Always Famous reboot. Even sustainable designer Marine Serre, based in France, opted for a sophisticated glamour look, hinting at aristocracy through luxurious trench coats and fluffy stoles amidst a collection that felt straight out of a David Lynch film.
As more luxury brands such as Chanel, Gucci, YSL, and Prada choose to stop using fur, it’s likely that we might face a shortage of high-end furs in the future.
In the year 2024, the viral trend of Gen-Z imitating Carmella Soprano’s style from “Mob Wives” sparked a resurgence in vintage fur clothing. This has essentially created a loophole for the fashion trend, offering both the desired look and perceived authenticity, while potentially bypassing some of the ethical concerns associated with them. As more designers such as Chanel, Gucci, YSL, and Prada move towards fur-free designs, there could be a future shortage of luxury fur items. This scarcity might drive up prices for existing fur pieces, particularly those from brands like Louis Vuitton that still produce fur items, which can range from $10,000 to $25,000 USD. At present, Louis Vuitton offers a variety of real fur items online, including a customizable Embellished Mink Trucker Jacket priced at $43,000 USD. As the use of fur in fashion continues to increase and consumers struggle with how to embrace this luxury aesthetic ethically, the trend appears to be repeating itself, similar to a snake consuming its own tail.
As a fashion enthusiast, I’ve been captivated by the creative reinterpretations that designers have been presenting recently. Instead of real fur, Diesel has been amazing us with convincing imitations through clever textile manipulation. Glenn Martens’ shredded faux fur denim, whether it’s a stylish jacket or a sleek dress, has been one of the most intriguing alternatives of the season and offers a modern twist on what a contemporary woman might look like as a digital trendsetter today. Similarly, Matthieu Blazy, formerly of Bottega Veneta, has mimicked fur textures with his signature leather transformations. Although Blazy hasn’t debuted for Chanel yet, it’s not unreasonable to expect he’ll continue pushing the boundaries of practical innovation there. Meanwhile, Dilara Findikoglu and Junya Watanabe have taken hair styling to a punk-rock extreme with synthetic wigs that echo Margiela’s iconic SS09 ensemble.
In essence, the distinctive feature of FW25’s furs was a bold move by designers, who were clearly challenging the traditional norms set by the elite, such as CZ Guests, Slim Keiths, and even characters like Carmella Soprano. This season, brands like Prada, Fendi, and Miu Miu presented a variety of faux fur accessories to emphasize a more outspoken personality. Items like a faux mink muff, furry mittens, or a stole combined with the right pair of driving gloves and a pearl necklace transformed these characters into powerful dressers, defying the flow of time.
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2025-03-13 00:26