Can Demna Be Gucci’s Hero?

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This morning, Hypebeast’s editorial Slack channel posed the question: “What’s the scoop at Gucci?” As fashion Twitter buzzes with speculation about who will take the prestigious position at Italy’s leading luxury brand, one team member predicted that Hedi Slimane would likely get the role, given his iconic fashion style reminiscent of his successful tenure at Celine. Another expressed a hope for someone other than a white man, advocating for greater diversity in high-profile fashion appointments and suggesting Grace Wales Bonner as an excellent choice.

It turns out that following Sabato De Sarno’s departure last month, the brand was facing two significant challenges: first, they were short-staffed as they no longer had a lead designer; second, they experienced a substantial decline in sales. In fact, Gucci reported a 24% drop in revenue during the final quarter of the previous year, and De Sarno’s more utilitarian design style failed to stimulate consumer interest amidst the luxury market slowdown.

As the discussion grew intense, an unexpected announcement was made by The New York Times’ Vanessa Friedman with a headline that sent shockwaves through the fashion world: “Gucci Appoints Demna Gvasalia, Current Creative Director of Balenciaga, as Their New Designer.” What a twist!

In early July, a 43-year-old designer from Georgia will assume control over the historic fashion house, following his last appearance at the Balenciaga couture show on July 6. He’ll team up with Gucci CEO Stefano Cantino to restore the brand to its former position as a financial powerhouse, incorporating his distinctive design elements into the iconic label. As Cantino stated, “Gucci represents fashion authority,” and that’s exactly what they aim to reestablish.

Demna expressed great enthusiasm about becoming part of the Gucci family. It’s a privilege for him to work for a House he deeply respects and has long admired. He is eager to help write a new, exciting chapter in Gucci’s history alongside Stefano and the entire team.

Not all heroes wear capes, but we didn’t expect Gucci’s to sport Triple S sneakers.

 

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As a gaming enthusiast, if I were to step back and look at the situation from afar, it’s not really that unexpected. Balenciaga, under Demna’s leadership for nearly a decade, and Gucci are both part of the same company, Kering. So, in essence, Demna moving roles isn’t exactly an external hire, making the transition relatively straightforward.

Remembering back to 2021, Demna allowed Alessandro Michele, then the creative director at Gucci, to rework some iconic Balenciaga shapes and patterns for their “Hacker Project.” Fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen called this collaboration the “unbeatable merchandise of the social media-driven fashion era.”

Now, if you know Demna, he’s all about creating a buzz. So, don’t be shocked when whatever he does at Gucci leaves you absolutely speechless.

At Balenciaga, Demna redefined the blueprint for establishing a fashion brand’s unique identity. His fashion week performances, ranging from stormy snowstorms to murky mud baths or futuristic stock exchanges, are widely acclaimed. Alongside the groundbreaking ensembles and star-studded front rows they bring, these events often generate the most buzz during any fashion week. Demna skillfully captures the interest of both the luxury fashion industry and consumers on its periphery, including health enthusiasts from Erewhon and athletic shoppers from Under Armour. Whether you love him or dislike him, Demna has made Balenciaga one of the most sought-after labels in today’s market.

People who have issues with this designer certainly have their own valid reasons. A thorough analysis of Demna’s tenure at Balenciaga can’t ignore the controversial advertising scandals that caused a stir towards the end of 2022. These included displays of children carrying BDSM-themed teddy bear bags and presentations involving Supreme Court documents concerning child pornography laws. The designer issued numerous well-spoken apologies and pledged a more serious and mature approach to his work in future, but after the dust settled, Demna mostly reverted back to his provocative style.

“Demna has revolutionized modern fashion whether you like it or not.”
—Kim Russell

It’s well-known that the fashion world often forgets past mistakes, and this is evident when you see the positive responses to Dolce & Gabbana’s “Paparazzi” Fall 2025 show, despite their history of racism and homophobia. On the other hand, Kering seems ready to overlook Demna’s previous misconduct at Gucci and trust his innovative spirit for increased profits. He’s demonstrated his ability: when he moved from Vetements to Balenciaga about a decade ago, experts predicted Balenciaga’s annual revenue would be around €200 million EUR. By 2021, industry predictions soared to approximately €1.76 billion EUR. (Vogue reported these figures.)

According to Francesca Bellettini, Kering’s deputy CEO, Demna’s deep knowledge of modern culture and his long history of creating innovative projects have made him one of the most significant and successful creators of his time. His selection as artistic director is a great way to rejuvenate Gucci’s creative spirit.

Kim Russell, well-known fashion commentator and stylist (better known as @thekimbino), thinks Demna’s appointment was “long overdue.” Shortly after the announcement, she messaged, “Demna has transformed contemporary fashion in an unavoidable way. He’s widely recognized, he has a devoted fanbase, and for quite some time, he’s been ahead of the curve.” However, she acknowledges that the decision is “controversial,” suggesting it will be “fascinating to observe how he manages this significant task while still dealing with his own issues at Balenciaga.

It’s challenging to envision Demna Gvasalia’s playful design aesthetics harmonizing with Gucci’s sophisticated styles without causing a significant identity shift. As fashion analyst Ashantéa Austin (aka @mustbemargiela) stated, “Demna’s work doesn’t evoke Gucci, except for the ‘Hacker Project.’ However, I believe he is exceptionally skilled and inventive.” Demna’s disruptive influence in the industry is undeniable, but with such a unique fashion identity, he must be cautious to avoid repeating his past triumphs to prevent Gucci from appearing excessively Balenciaga-inspired upon his debut. Belletini, on the other hand, told Vogue that Demna is “prepared for change and eager for a fresh creative challenge,” emphasizing that he is versatile in his creativity.

Regardless of opinions, supporters of Demna Gvasalia want him to continue expressing himself genuinely, and it seems that the leadership at Gucci shares this sentiment. As Stefano Cantino, the CEO of Gucci, stated to The New York Times, “We sought a bold and assertive designer, and Demna is one of the rare ones.” Beyond his design talents, Mr. Cantino emphasized that Demna offers an insight into modern culture, a grasp of what luxury means now, and a profound comprehension of the new generation.

In a mutually beneficial arrangement, Gucci serves as the blank canvas Demna Gvasalia needs, while he brings the edge and creativity Gucci requires. Following his latest Balenciaga ready-to-wear show on Sunday, the designer, with his plans for Gucci in mind, expressed to reporters, “Perhaps now I want to create exceptional garments for my customer—someone who appreciates my work and connects with that aesthetic—and who experiences clothing by wearing it, rather than analyzing it.

If Demna successfully revitalizes Gucci to become a profitable brand once more, he will have the kind of exceptional career that aspiring fashion designers long to achieve. In reality, his main focus is on creating outstanding clothing for his customers. It’s this quality – what sells – that will not only be his success but also make him a part of fashion history.

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2025-03-14 00:56