Safowa Bright Bitzelberger discusses designing costumes for Netflix’s Griselda

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Safowa Bright Bitzelberger discusses designing costumes for Netflix's Griselda

As a fashion enthusiast and historian, I find Safowa Bright Bitzelberger‘s passion for period costume design truly inspiring. Her dedication to authenticity and attention to detail is commendable. The way she immerses herself in research, seeking out private photos, catalogs, newspapers, and even the tiniest elements like suitcases and airport settings, is a testament to her love for her craft.

As a devoted admirer, I can’t help but express my awe for Safowa Bright Bitzelberger, a costume designer who has truly made her mark in the industry. From contributing to the visual storytelling of shows like “Raven’s Home,” “Ballers,” “Instant Mom,” “Body of Proof,” “Law & Order: LA,” and most recently, the captivating series “Griselda” starring Sofia Vergara – a role that has earned Safowa Bright Bitzelberger an Emmy nomination for Outstanding Period Costumes For A Limited Or Anthology Series.

Safowa Bright Bitzelberger: This project demands extensive investigation into its subject matter and timeframe, which is consistent throughout. What sets this project apart is its focus on a real individual, even if portrayed in a fictional context in certain aspects. The unique difficulty lies in the subject matter – Griselda Blanco and the Miami drug cartels, including the Colombian cartels – as it’s not common for such organizations to publicly disclose information. This lack of available research on specific individuals, including Griselda Blanco, is due to their preference for secrecy. As a private person, her life behind the scenes was limited, with only a few photos available. Consequently, when searching for images of Griselda Blanco online, you’ll typically find the same mug shot and a handful of rare behind-the-scenes photos. This scarcity of information made our research process challenging, but we compensated by delving deeply into the time period and utilizing every available resource – media, footage, catalogs, etc. We were fortunate to have access to numerous rental houses in Los Angeles and an abundance of vintage items from local vendors across California and the nation. Combining this research with our imagination and piecing together what we thought the character would wear based on their aesthetic, we managed to create a satisfying end product that I’m proud of.

Safowa Bright Bitzelberger: Initially, you conduct research and create concept boards based on findings. Then, you have a talented team including yourself. Finding suitable items, especially vintage, can be difficult due to size inconsistencies. Even when measuring actors thoroughly, it’s challenging with vintage pieces because they come in various shapes and sizes. Vintage clothing often requires more pieces to fit correctly, which is usual whether working with contemporary or period costumes. The process involves casting a wide net to various vendors and rental houses, and having a skilled team who can create custom garments based on illustrations or alter existing ones to better suit the project’s needs.

Safowa Bright Bitzelberger expresses that this project holds immense significance for her, both professionally and personally. It validates and acknowledges her work in a way that is truly exceptional. Time-wise and energy-wise, the project was demanding and ambitious, but the creative team executed it flawlessly. When working on a project, one’s focus is primarily on doing the best job possible within the project’s constraints, without necessarily considering awards. However, to be recognized for such dedication is extraordinary.

Safowa Bright Bitzelberger: One of many favorites, but let’s discuss episode five, which is Emmy-nominated. It features two significant outfits throughout. For Sofia, the white lace dress in the later part of the episode catches my eye due to its contrast with her previous attire and the symbolism it represents. This dress signifies her transformation from a hopeful aspirant to a powerful leader. The shift in decades, from the seventies to the eighties, is visually striking, and the dress reflects this change while demonstrating Sofia’s newfound authority.

Safowa Bright Bitzelberger: Our research guides us in terms of aesthetic style and time period. However, we focus on showing Griselda’s rapid rise to billionaire status within five years, not decades later. We toned down her trendy appearance and designer wardrobe, but emphasized the wealth around her instead. In the 70s, we maintained the era’s aesthetic for Griselda, using fabrics, clean lines, and elegant pieces when she moved forward into the 80s.

Safowa Bright Bitzelberger: Custom-made items are crucial in our work. We collected numerous vintage items, even setting up a small costume workshop. However, finding multiple pieces of the same item is often challenging. It’s quite difficult. Yet, we managed to find five shirts in various styles. We had several racks filled with duplicates for some costumes, including many shirts and pants. These were used on our stunt actors. But when it came to specific characters like Griselda or Carmen during the party scene where she was attacked by Griselda, we created pieces inspired by vintage designs that gave us flexibility to modify as needed and have as many copies as necessary on standby. I strongly believe in having a backup for the backup’s backup. No matter the cost, making one more or purchasing one more is always a hundred times more expensive than having an extra shirt due to unexpected incidents. If we run out of duplicates because we were trying to save money and time, we end up needing another one, and then someone is washing the damaged one, which isn’t ideal.

Safowa Bright Bitzelberger: In terms of silhouettes when depicting her at her peak power, the ’80s were particularly beneficial due to their broad shoulders and contrasting styles. This made it relatively easy to create harsher, more structured garments, even for pantsuits or skirtsuits. For instance, I opted for a stiff, structured suit when showcasing her transformation in the series, from an ordinary person to a powerful figure. This suit, an ivory brocade number, exudes confidence as she struts into a high-end Miami salon. Despite being a skirt suit, the feminine shoulders are still evident, yet the ’80s provided ample opportunity for structure in my designs. Additionally, Sofia’s idea of pairing the outfits with dark hose and shoes added a grounded, balanced aesthetic to the overall look. Truly, it was a brilliant concept that complemented the series’ aesthetics beautifully.

Safowa Bright Bitzelberger: Yes, indeed. Typically, you end up spending more money because you tend to utilize the more valuable items, even if they are merely costly rentals that are delicate and fragile. Therefore, certain pieces are highlighted in the main cast, but when it comes to less prominent characters like extras or background actors, we wanted to avoid giving the impression that the clothes were wearing them. This was particularly important for Griselda, as we didn’t want her to appear overly trend-conscious or preoccupied with acquiring material possessions. Instead, we focused on showcasing her power and wealth subtly through her beautiful home, cars, and money without making it the central focus.

Safowa Bright Bitzelberger: It can sometimes be difficult to match styles when working with characters, but I consider it just part of the creative journey. At times, it’s enjoyable when the character you’re trying to emulate doesn’t appreciate your style attempts. However, I must confess that it’s always delightful to work on a character like Marta. She leads a lavish lifestyle filled with partying, drugs, and indulgence. Dressing her was a pleasure because she enjoys clothing, which made the process even more enjoyable. Admittedly, it is exciting to style a character who is fashion-conscious or keeps up with the latest trends aesthetically and stylistically. Overall, it’s always a source of joy.

Safowa Bright Bitzelberger: I believe that research is crucial in our work, and it requires a thorough investigation, which we have undertaken extensively. When you type phrases like “cool seventies outfits” or “1978 fashion” into Google, you’ll find results mostly focused on disco, bell-bottoms, and party costumes. Even when you move to subsequent pages, the images remain similar. This means that research needs to be conducted layer upon layer, like flipping through multiple pages one after another. Obtaining personal photos from people who lived during that time and in that specific region can be incredibly valuable. Additionally, resources such as catalogs, newspapers, and even ordinary magazines can provide glimpses into the real lives of individuals, which is something that sets period projects apart from contemporary ones. It’s essential to accurately depict not only the era but also the unique characteristics of the characters, their environment, their social class, and countless other elements. When you examine our series Griselda, I believe you will notice this attention to detail. It’s not just about creating a visually appealing 1980s or 1970s atmosphere; it’s about capturing the essence of Miami, its community, its social class, various aspects like the Columbian community, drug cartels, and more – all these factors have significantly influenced the show’s perspective and aesthetic. This includes costumes, hairstyles, wigs, make-up, props such as suitcases, and production design elements like sets, furniture, and cars.

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2024-08-13 14:15